On Saturday April 16th 2011, I made my first visit ever to Ramallah. Although we didn't hang out in the streets of the city, driving through gave me a good idea of what to expect. We headed to the Ramallah Cultural Palace to watch a passion play, with the leading role of Jesus being played by a good friend of the family's cousin. The center itself was very nice and is located on a hill, right near Mahmoud Darwish's burial place. Inside, the auditorium was quite huge. To my pleasant surprise it was packed, and some people weren't able to have seats, so they just sat on the steps to watch. The play was really well done, and the cast ranged from teenagers to early 20-somethings. At times they used some of the instrumental music from Mel Gibson's movie, but the play consisted of Arabic songs at almost every major scene of the play. After about 2 hours, some stayed on to take pictures with the cast, but for sure it was the main character getting all of the attention. As it was dark when we came out of the center following the play, that is when I was able to notice some aspects of Ramallah. 

Historically Ramallah was a Christian city, and I was told my Palestinian family was originally from there before they moved to Jerusalem. The city now has a Muslim majority with a remaining strong Christian minority. Nowadays, Ramallah is seen as the center of economic and political activity in the areas under the Palestinian Authority. It's also known for its cafes and nightlife, and that became quickly obvious with all the young people hanging out in the streets, almost everywhere really. However, it's also known for its crazy traffic, and even though it may be easy to get into Ramallah,most people complain about having to wait hours at the check-point to leave the city. It may also be perceived as a somewhat 'turbulent' city at times, especially when I hear stories of clashes between Palestinians and soldiers at check-points, with guns firing and family members of mine being caught literally in the middle of this, yet thankfully able to drive away from the clash... Eeeeeh!! 

Of course I don't believe that paranoia does much good to one's life, but it just reminds you to be safe and to be aware of your surroundings, which is important no matter your location. In the time that I'll be here, there are some plans to spend more time there and do a bit of exploring.

Some pictures of the play:

There is currently a 'festival' going on here that I won't be able to attend, but has been of interest to me. It's called the Palestine Festival of Literature. They are basically events happening in different cities throughout Israel. What I didn't know is that the same festival is also happening for Israel, called International Writers Festival of Israel. I got an e-mail today reminding me of their events, and I ran into a New York Times article that discusses how both sides are ignoring each other's festivals... =( 


In terms of going to some of these events, it's not always as simple as you'd think. There is crazy traffic here and sometimes roads are closed off. Finding parking can also be a challenge. I will say that I feel there are at least quite a few things to do, if you make an effort to look for them. A few days ago, I attended a concert at the YMCA as part of the Jasmine Festival (basically a spring festival of classical, jazz and world music). It was nice to see such talented young people play (teenagers!!!) as well as the pieces played by their instructors. It was just something different to do and check-out here, which I thought was nice. 


I've also caught a glimpse of Israeli nightlife, and I must say I was quite surprised because it reminded me of Rome and Paris on warm spring nights. What I saw involved streets crowded with young people, drinking, smoking, eating and talking way louder than they should or need to (LOL!!!). Guys dressed in whatever, while most girls were looking their hottest and you almost feel that's kind of unfair (haha!!!). Eyes searching each other, trying to figure out 'which group they belong to,' which languages they speak? A few drinks more and it seems no one cares anymore... I'd label the feel as chilled and relaxed, and if sitting outside in the slight breeze may be bothersome, that is nothing their super strong drinks won't make you forget real fast... 

I'm aware that none of this sounds terribly 'religious' or Easter-like in nature. However, I think that highlighting some cultural aspects are just as important and interesting as any other. What I'm drawn to is the mix of religious/spiritual with the more common and mundane aspects of life. At what point do you draw the line between your spiritual self and material self? Is this even possible? Does going out and 'getting crazy' mean that you can't be a deeply spiritual person? Does shutting yourself off from the world automatically result in you being a better, kinder, more loving person? I realize different things will suit different personalities best, so perhaps it's up to each of us to figure out where we stand. +

Palestine Festival of Literature link:

http://www.palfest.org/index.html

New York Times article link: 

Israelis and Palestinians Hail Writers of the Word, Just Not With One Another

Jasmine festival link: 

Jasmine Festival program

Another productive morning--and I don't consider myself a morning person, LOL. My cousin and I went first to Al Saladin street for passport pictures, and I was finally able to change some of them dollars. We go there because according to experience they seem to have the best rates. Al Saladin street is the biggest street in East Jerusalem and also the street where my father worked in his pharmacy 30 years ago (the pharmacy is still there too). First and last time I had seen that place was 1.5 years ago, and it was packed with Muslims shopping for Ramadan. Today was emptier and slightly easier to walk the street, even though people walking at crazy slow, or fast paces//not caring to let you pass sadly happen all over the place in this country. Everyone does it, and so you get used to asserting yourself fast (otherwise you'll get annoyed, LOL). A little 'issue' with the currency change: a few were unwilling to change my currency because I brought $20 bills, so in the future I'll remember to bring $50 bills and higher only. However, we did find someone who agreed to take them, at the cost of 20 shekels. That means it only cost me about $5, which is absolutely nothing to me, so I pounced on it (just get me some Shekels already, sheesh!!! :) ). 

We then went to the Damascus Gate and the Muslim quarter for me to buy that skirt I had seen yesterday, which is oh so Russian Orthodox Easter mass-appropriate, and a complete steal!!! I also found a scarf to cover my hair so I am ready for, as my uncle calls it, 'the most important night of the year.' So basically I'll be wearing all black: black top, long black 'flowy' skirt, and a black scarf over my head. My dad said to be sure to dress warm because that monastery gets super freezing at night, so I will be sure to keep that in mind. I feel relaxed now knowing I don't have to worry about 'what I'll wear for that day.' I thought it was kind of cute and unique to be running around the Old City looking for religious garb. Whoever thought I'd be doing that someday?! :) +

Later, I randomly 'ran' into this article, about Jesus' crucifixion nails... Perfect timing?! 


Jesus' Crucifixion Nails Found, Says Israeli Filmmaker

Today was quite a day. I was woken up to eat still-warm falafel and hummus before going to the Jerusalem mall with my (girl) cousin. The weather was insane (crazy wind, and then rain) and the mall was absolutely packed, as the Jews are getting ready for their Passover that starts next Monday, and the Christians have Palm Sunday this weekend, and Easter the following week-end. Needless to say, everyone is heading to the malls to take advantage of the holiday deals before the prices go back up. Finding parking was ridiculous and took about 15 minutes to find a spot, but that issue, along with the drivers here, deserve a post all of their own. We strolled around for a little over 2 hours, during which I cracked and bought the cutest pair of light pink heels. I haven't even changed my currency yet but they let me use dollars, which I thought was awesome!!! I already know I won't be doing much 'shopping' here besides souvenirs and probably Kinder's chocolate (hard to find in the States) and since these shoes were super comfortable, I gave in. My first purchase here!! I'd say the prices here are a big deterrent for me since 1. if/when I do shop, I thrive on bargain shopping, and 2. I don't feel there is anything here I can't find in the States. But I already knew this coming here, and planned accordingly, so it's not a concern. The exception will of course involve the endless religious trinkets, hence the 'souvenirs' (which will be purchased last). Those Old City open-air markets with tons of lovely scarves will also get my business, provided I get some serious bargains after exercising my haggling abilities (and trust that I will!!!).

As planned, later in the day we went to watch the/some Arab Catholics on the Via Dolorosa pilgrimage. There was only about 25 people in all, of different nationalities and age groups. For some reason I expected a lot more people to be there, but then I was also told that people go on this walk at any time throughout the day, and that if you wanted, you could even get your own cross to carry and go on your very own pilgrimage yourself... MMM, never thought of it that way...  Before starting the walk, we looked around the Church of the Flagellation. The walk then started right across the street, at Umariya Elementary school, a Muslim school part of the Muslim quarter. I believe this is supposed to be the site of the prison where Jesus was tortured and kept until his crucifixion. We then visited the rest of the 8 stations, which is pretty much all of the Muslim quarter. Since these streets are lined with shops, there is constant commotion, cars and mopeds passing by (and these streets are narrow as heck; I still sometimes get shocked that cars can even FIT through!!!), and stray cats and animals in general. I was walking and looked to my right, only to have a huge white parrot with the feathers on his head raised up, staring at me with his beak wide open. As if I wasn't as surprised as he was that he's there, perched on the wall... LOL!!!! I wish I had caught a picture, but it happened so fast that I didn't have time to bust out the camera. Of course the walk ended at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which we entered and then continued in to the right, down 2 flights of stairs, the first of which leads to a big mosaic on the ground, and the second to a small, cave-like Catholic church. We stayed there a bit and a few prayers were said, and some songs sung. It concluded with a young man with a really beautiful voice singing a Latin song.

The people I attended with were Orthodox, and one asked a Catholic attendee if one Orthodox song could be sung during this pilgrimage, and the answer was a flat out 'no' (but almost like a "are you crazy?!" kind of response). Sadly, this only reminds me that divisions can be many in this place, even within Christian communities themselves. What about people who have parents of different Christian denominations (like my own for that matter)? Are they supposed to choose just 'one' denomination to 'like' better? Does denomination even matter? Shouldn't it be that we work on our hearts instead of which denomination we choose to claim? Will God ask us which denomination we are, and give preference, when we answer one way or another? I know what I feel, and I know that I enjoyed being there, and that is all that matters to me. To get home, we took this kind of shuttle service for Arabs and it was quite convenient (my first time on public transportation here!! LOL). Apparently there will be the major Via Dolorosa walk happening on Good Friday, and I believe we are going to be attending that too, but following a different route. Many things will surely happen before then, so I'll be sharing those as well. =) +

On the way out, the Holy Sepulchre was actually almost empty!!! Very rare to see it that way!!! 

Yesterday we attended yet again the mass at St. Jacob's next to the Holy Sepulchre. The mass was longer than last week's (2.5 hours instead of 1.5) because it was repeating the masses from the weeks prior up until today. Even though I don't speak Arabic I find the mass(es) very soothing and relaxing, and not knowing a language has never really been an issue for me. Even so, in spiritual matters I find language to be less of a barrier than it might be in other instances (besides there's nothing stopping you from praying in your own language(s) if that suits you). The people in attendance are Arab Orthodox but it's also interesting to see the occasional Russian Orthodox visitors, priests, and nuns who stop by to kiss the Virgin Mary's icon and say a quick prayer. It's always enjoyable to walk through the streets of the Old City, especially at night. Kinda makes me wish I could live inside those quarters... :)

Continuing in our fasting, we had huge falafel and Ka'ak bread (bread with sesame) and salad for dinner. Tea and some kind of sweet always complete the meal. The sweets of course have to be appropriate for the fast, so we usually buy them from Christian bakers since they know the ingredients used to make them. I stuffed myself, which may have prevented me from falling asleep right away, but I just can't refuse falafel (I think I ate most of it this time, lol!).

I believe on Tuesday I will be going to the Old City to watch the Catholics walk Jesus's path on Via Dolorosa and all the stations where He fell. Can't wait to catch THAT on film and pictures!! Will be sharing those ASAP (and praying that the laptop here doesn't crash; it is seeing its last days, ha!). +

Yesterday, on Thursday April 7th 2011, we celebrated the Annunciation-- when Mary was told that she would become the mother of Jesus. Why was everyone rejoicing? Because we were going to eat lots of St. Peter's fish!!! After a week of fasting, it wasn't too hard on me but since everyone else had been doing it longer, they had been looking forward to this for a while. It was the first time they'd get to have some animal product since the beginning of Lent. Of course, the fish was delicious, and so were the salads, French fries and bottles of Arak that were quickly consumed (lol). We stuffed ourselves and my stomach definitely felt this gastronomic change, but I sure didn't mind.

There are a few things planned for the next few weeks that will lead to Easter. It includes me attending the Russian Orthodox Easter mass with my uncle (which will start at midnight and last about 8 hours, if I remember correctly), and going to Yafo the Monday following Easter for a big Christian festival. I'm not sure who else will join me/us to the Easter Mass, but I have to somewhat consider what I'll be wearing since I have to wear a skirt that falls below the knees, and I'll also have to cover my hair. There's no rule against nail polish but there is against lipstick... so I was told. I haven't done anything of the sort and since I am very curious, I am excited to see how it all comes together. 

A few visuals: 

Uncooked fish: 

Cooked!!!!

My first 2 days here have been very nice and relaxing thus far. I find I'm adjusting to the jet lag a lot faster then expected, or maybe it's also the excitement of being here that prevents you from sleeping half the day (lol).


Thursday, my first night here, cousins and I went to the movies at an Israeli mall and I was surprised to see they have lots of movies playing in English (thanks to the considerable English-speaking community/tourists here). The weather was absolutely gorgeous even at midnight, but I guess I feel I have yet to experience 'bad weather' here... On to food, as per tradition, we are eating foods without meat or dairy until Easter, so I filled myself with stuffed grape leaves and rice-filled red peppers... YUMMMM!!!! 

Friday the 1st, the 4th Friday of Lent, I got up late (we had been up until 5am talking and catching up on things) and I had delicious home-made zeit za'atar for breakfast... goodness nothing compares to home-made food!!!! and that bread, so soft and mushy.... <3!!!!!! I need to muster up the discipline to rise at the break of dawn and make my own bread too... I vow to bring some recipes home with me... and learn how to make them. Or just have my dad make them LOLLLL

In the afternoon we went to Arabic Orthodox mass at St. Jacob's Church in the Old City, to hear the mass entirely dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is literally right next to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. As with most religious places in Jerusalem, many churches will have different 'sections' depending on the denomination (ie: Catholic, Coptic, Syrian, Armenian, Orthodox, etc.). So for those who want to hear mass in a certain language, they have only to go to the appropriate area to do so (if available). I thought it got pretty full but according to what I heard, that was not even considered packed. As I enjoy ancient architecture, I definitely appreciate seeing these old, cave-like places where one can pray, sing and meditate. In many ways it's amazing to think they have survived throughout the ages. 

In the evening my soul was finally at peace when I was reunited with bigger-than-usual falafel and sesame bread!!!!!!!!!!!! I have to say that this fasting thing is not being hard on me in the LEAST. I am enjoying everything and eating plenty of it, so i have zero complaints. Family members always make me laugh when they seem to think I'm not 'eating enough' but I am definitely not one for starving myself EVER so there's no need to worry about that :)

One pleasant, if not random, surprise comes in the form of SAMA FM. It's a Palestinian radio station that plays AMAZIIIING house/dance/trance/ambient music that would give any major American/European club some serious competition. I don't know if they also play Arabic music, but if so far I've only heard the likes of house music play on there. I have been trying real hard to find the name of a track I heard playing on there at 2am (how typical; it's always in the middle of the night that these things happen lol). I will have to keep digging through that website (http://www.fmradiostationz.com/arabic/sama-fm.html) and/or give good ol' YouTube a visit when I get a chance... 

'Tis all for now +

Pictures of the church:

just outside the church:

this is looking out into the courtyard; if exiting, on the left is the Holy Sepulchre