One of the popular tourist sites in Jerusalem is none other than the Mount of Olives. Indeed, this is the area where tourists—as well as locals—love to take that ‘signature photo’ of Jerusalem with the Old City and the Dome of the Rock Mosque in the background. Just below the balcony, you can also view the numerous Jewish graves and the golden domes of the Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene on the right side.

There is usually a camel that you can sit and ride on as well. Both in 2009 and this year, I saw the same man with crutches who brings his camel for people to ride on, reminding us that for some, these are their modest livelihoods and not just a source of entertainment.

And just in case this view makes you crave more (you are in the Holy Land, after all!), Augusta Victoria Hospital’s Mount Scopus is another great nearby area for such enterprises.

Be ready for pricey souvenir shops all over this area. Being a recent grad myself, I exercised my haggling abilities while in Jerusalem (and it’s nice to know that there are still some places in the world where you can do so!).

As a reminder, since the Mount of Olives is the highest point in Jerusalem, it can get very windy fast and be cooler than other areas of Jerusalem. You would definitely want to layer if planning on being around in the evening.

Also, the word on the street is that this area has recently been a hotbed of drug activity, so just as a precaution I would advise traveling in groups, especially at night. A mix of male-female is always better than an all female-group, again, especially at night. No, I’m not being paranoid nor am I naïve enough to assume/claim that those involved in drug activity are/are only Palestinian and/or that anything would happen during your visit. I’m just aware of cultural factors and believe in being better safe than sorry wherever one may be. J

That being said, yes the evening visit is highly recommended!! What’s better than daytime panoramic views of ancient cities? Well, night-time ones… sans crazy heat but with low glowing lights and crazy wind making you deeply regret leaving your hair tie behind on that particular night... But really how can anyone possibly complain, when upon viewing these pictures with flyaway hairs, all you can manage to do is laugh... And feel rather accomplished at the sight of the one that passed the test.

One of the important places for my family in Jerusalem—if not for other Russian Orthodox people as well—is the Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension (Russian Orthodox Church outside of Russia) on the Mount of Olives.

This is the place where I spent the night before Easter on my feet for about 4 hours (as highlighted here), praying and reflecting on the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus along with fellow Russian Orthodox folks.

The convent is located in the village of A-Tur on the Mount of Olives, and can be hard to find due to its ‘secluded’ and somewhat hidden location. What helps in finding it? The huge bell tower of course! While the tower serves as a guide to the general location, it’s clearly not the indicator of the entrance itself. The entrance is located between two buildings adorned with food shops, and you have to walk ‘in’ towards the back of a narrow pathway (kind of like a driveway) to get to its green gate. This green gate will have a golden plaque on the door indicating that it’s the Russian Orthodox Convent. You ring the bell and there should be someone who lets you in; sometimes it’s a Russian Orthodox nun, sometimes it’s a friendly Muslim gatekeeper/guard. I suppose the reason there is a gate is because, as is revealed when you step inside, you can drive and park inside the premises.

What do you see upon entering? Pretty much trees, gardens, a pathway leading to the church, and just a lot of space. You will definitely notice how quiet it is, which is in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the streets literally steps away.

You can take in the fresh air and quiet as you stroll through the garden and make your way to the church. When approaching the church, the gigantic bell tower will appear on its left side.

The church building is not so huge and is made of a bright cream colored stone, which I presume is limestone (a common stone used in the country). When stepping inside the compound, there is a kind of ‘patio’ built right in front of the church, so that when you enter the premises, you are not inside the church just yet. It is in this ‘patio’ that there are some benches and a wooden ‘chest’ where long aprons and skirts are stored in case women didn’t come wearing one (it’s tradition that women must enter wearing long skirts and their hair slightly covered). Blessing yourself as you then enter the church, you may notice it’s relatively small in size. I’ve made comments about this and was reminded that this wasn’t really meant to be a ‘church’ for huge masses, but rather the place for nuns and priests to worship and live modestly. You’ll notice the altar in the center, with the right side dedicated to Jesus and the left side to the Virgin Mary. Typical of Christian Orthodoxy, there are of course numerous icons throughout the church that are revered by the Russian Orthodox. I found the church peaceful and lovely, and also admired the ceiling painting of Jesus, depicted in a gold and light blue background.

To see the site of Jesus’ ascension, you need only exit and go around the corner of the church, and on the right side (if facing the church), you will see a little shrine.

Continuing on your exploration, on the opposite side, you will find the bell tower on the left side of the church. It is massive and powerful, particularly when the bells are going off. I’ve been told that climbing up the tower’s never-ending steps provides an amazing view all the way to Jordan and I don’t doubt it for a second (I only wish I could see it for myself!!! They don’t allow people up there these days).

As you wander through the gardens, you will soon find the chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist. In the chapel—smaller than the church—one can see ancient mosaic on the floor, including the very spot believed to be the location where St. John the Baptist’s head was found. I found it amusing how it seems as though an almost perfect hole was carved out of the ground to mark the spot; I would be content with just knowing the general area particularly with something of a gruesome nature… (I’ll be the first to admit that I am still learning a lot about Christian Orthodoxy and such ‘detailed shrines’ is part of the deal, lol). Since it’s ancient mosaic, there are carpets covering the floor to help preserve it, and the mention of it once being an Armenian Church brings questions to mind. What happened to the Armenian Church? At what point did it become Russian Orthodox property? What happened to the head? Ok, so maybe I don’t need to know all the gruesome details, but my curiosity on the subject is definitely sparked…

The rest of the promenade will reveal more greenery, the cottage that the church founder had built, the ‘food hall’ for the priests, nuns and other residents, a cemetery in the back, and many lovely panoramic views. And many, many cats (although I must say it’s likely a Jerusalem thing as opposed to an isolated event).

It’s interesting to note that there is another location also believed to be the site of the ascension. That site is called the Chapel of the Ascension and is located just a bit further down the street. There you will see a small, limestone-colored chapel with a domed roof and inside, a rectangle-shaped stone on the ground that marks the location of Jesus’ ascension.

As a reminder, since the Mount of Olives is the highest point in Jerusalem, it can get very windy fast and be cooler than other areas of Jerusalem. You would definitely want to layer if planning on being around in the evening. 

A few helpful links, and my slideshow:

Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension 

Chapel of the Ascension

Since I came to Jerusalem last month to witness all the Palestinian Christian Easter traditions, I had my share of church/mass experiences. By blood, my family is Russian Orthodox, but being that they live in an Arabic-speaking country, it makes sense that they might like to go to the Arab Orthodox mass, which is in Arabic. Linguistically it makes little difference for me as I speak neither Arabic nor Russian (sadly!). Although they are both Orthodox churches, albeit of different ethnic groups, some aspects stood out to me during these frequent April church visits.

The first thing that comes to mind when I compare both churches is the way people dress when attending mass. Going to Arab Orthodox mass puts little limitation on what you can wear. Of course, you'd figure not to wear things that are too revealing, but in terms of pants or skirts and which colors, pretty much anything goes. Some like to dress up, wear a variety of colors (brights and patterns too) while some are more casual in jeans and flats. 

In Orthodox churches women are supposed to cover their hair slightly, as a sign of modesty, but it was not made a requirement when attending Arab Orthodox mass. I saw some wearing it (usually older women), but I'd say most didn't. 

For Russian Orthodox church, ladies have to wear a long skirt and cover their hair. There is no exception to this rule. I had gone to Russian Orthodox mass at the Mount of Olives on the Eve of Easter, so I chose to wear black. However, I saw most women wearing pretty much neutral colors, and a lot of flower-patterned scarves on their head. I had visited the church before Easter, and I was surprised to find that at the entrance of the church was a wooden 'box' that had tons of apron-like long skirts ready for you to wear in case you didn't come wearing one. As I wasn't wearing a skirt on that day, to enter the church I wore one of these briefly while inside, and I wore my sweater's hood too (since I didn't have a scarf then).

Another detail that stands out is the way the mass is carried out. In Arab Orthodox church, depending on the day, the masses are usually rather brief (1.5 to 2 hours). There is seating throughout the church and most people sit until a particular passage referring to God or Jesus comes, at which point people will stand for the passage. On the other hand, Russian Orthodox masses seem to be longer (the one I attended was 4 hours! But it was Easter Eve at the Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension after all...), and sitting is usually a privilege left for older people. Basically, you stand for the duration of the mass. The seating I saw on Easter Eve was very limited, and the concept was the same in that when certain passages come, people stand. 

A third detail I noticed involves socializing/behavioral aspects. I got the impression that going to church for Arabs is a very social event, with people greeting each other, kids everywhere (loud and quiet ones), and sometimes even some minor chatting on the sides. When mass was over, people would linger around and say hello to one another. Basically, it was rarely 'silent as the grave' when attending a mass.

I definitely noticed a difference when I entered the Russian Orthodox church. As I entered and heard a priest singing in a low and consistent voice, I immediately remembered how beautiful that traditional singing can be in those churches. It was for the most part very quiet, dark (the only lighting was from candles) and whispering seemed to be at a minimum. Aside from nuns in black attire moving about at times, and of course people blessing themselves, there was limited movement. I remember one brief moment, when the choir of nuns were singing. It sounded so angelic and I felt so still that for a few seconds, as I closed my eyes and said a prayer, I actually felt like I was the only person there... Then someone passed by me and I was back in 'the real world.' (*Sigh* It's fine... that moment was enough to have made this long night worth it.)

Of course I could be wrong, but I didn't sense that there was as much interaction between people here as in the Arab Orthodox church. There could be different reasons for that. Could be some people were Russian tourists visiting for Easter, maybe some are more reserved or simply don't know anyone else who is attending. At Arab Orthodox church it seemed everyone knew each other, which would obviously explain increased interaction. 

Basically, in terms of 'rules,' I'd have to say that the Russian Orthodox church is stricter than the Arab Orthodox church. It's not a question of right or wrong; they're just different. The point is not to portray one as 'better' than the other; I was just reflecting on how they may or may not be alike. I'm glad to have experienced each so that I increase my knowledge and experience of each side and in some ways, of the cultures as well.

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