Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Panoramic view of the city from the Mount of Olives, Jerusalem

One of the popular tourist sites in Jerusalem is none other than the Mount of Olives. Indeed, this is the area where tourists—as well as locals—love to take that ‘signature photo’ of Jerusalem with the Old City and the Dome of the Rock Mosque in the background. Just below the balcony, you can also view the numerous Jewish graves and the golden domes of the Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene on the right side.

There is usually a camel that you can sit and ride on as well. Both in 2009 and this year, I saw the same man with crutches who brings his camel for people to ride on, reminding us that for some, these are their modest livelihoods and not just a source of entertainment.
And just in case this view makes you crave more (you are in the Holy Land, after all!), Augusta Victoria Hospital’s Mount Scopus is another great nearby area for such enterprises.

Be ready for pricey souvenir shops all over this area. Being a recent grad myself, I exercised my haggling abilities while in Jerusalem (and it’s nice to know that there are still some places in the world where you can do so!).

As a reminder, since the Mount of Olives is the highest point in Jerusalem, it can get very windy fast and be cooler than other areas of Jerusalem. You would definitely want to layer if planning on being around in the evening.
Also, the word on the street is that this area has recently been a hotbed of drug activity, so just as a precaution I would advise traveling in groups, especially at night. A mix of male-female is always better than an all female-group, again, especially at night. No, I’m not being paranoid nor am I naïve enough to assume/claim that those involved in drug activity are/are only Palestinian and/or that anything would happen during your visit. I’m just aware of cultural factors and believe in being better safe than sorry wherever one may be. J

That being said, yes the evening visit is highly recommended!! What’s better than daytime panoramic views of ancient cities? Well, night-time ones… sans crazy heat but with low glowing lights and crazy wind making you deeply regret leaving your hair tie behind on that particular night... But really how can anyone possibly complain, when upon viewing these pictures with flyaway hairs, all you can manage to do is laugh... And feel rather accomplished at the sight of the one that passed the test.



Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension on the Mount of Olives, Jerusalem

One of the important places for my family in Jerusalem—if not for other Russian Orthodox people as well—is the Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension (Russian Orthodox Church outside of Russia) on the Mount of Olives.
This is the place where I spent the night before Easter on my feet for about 4 hours (as highlighted here), praying and reflecting on the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus along with fellow Russian Orthodox folks.

The convent is located in the village of A-Tur on the Mount of Olives, and can be hard to find due to its ‘secluded’ and somewhat hidden location. What helps in finding it? The huge bell tower of course! While the tower serves as a guide to the general location, it’s clearly not the indicator of the entrance itself. The entrance is located between two buildings adorned with food shops, and you have to walk ‘in’ towards the back of a narrow pathway (kind of like a driveway) to get to its green gate. This green gate will have a golden plaque on the door indicating that it’s the Russian Orthodox Convent. You ring the bell and there should be someone who lets you in; sometimes it’s a Russian Orthodox nun, sometimes it’s a friendly Muslim gatekeeper/guard. I suppose the reason there is a gate is because, as is revealed when you step inside, you can drive and park inside the premises.

What do you see upon entering? Pretty much trees, gardens, a pathway leading to the church, and just a lot of space. You will definitely notice how quiet it is, which is in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the streets literally steps away.
You can take in the fresh air and quiet as you stroll through the garden and make your way to the church. When approaching the church, the gigantic bell tower will appear on its left side.

The church building is not so huge and is made of a bright cream colored stone, which I presume is limestone (a common stone used in the country). When stepping inside the compound, there is a kind of ‘patio’ built right in front of the church, so that when you enter the premises, you are not inside the church just yet. It is in this ‘patio’ that there are some benches and a wooden ‘chest’ where long aprons and skirts are stored in case women didn’t come wearing one (it’s tradition that women must enter wearing long skirts and their hair slightly covered). Blessing yourself as you then enter the church, you may notice it’s relatively small in size. I’ve made comments about this and was reminded that this wasn’t really meant to be a ‘church’ for huge masses, but rather the place for nuns and priests to worship and live modestly. You’ll notice the altar in the center, with the right side dedicated to Jesus and the left side to the Virgin Mary. Typical of Christian Orthodoxy, there are of course numerous icons throughout the church that are revered by the Russian Orthodox. I found the church peaceful and lovely, and also admired the ceiling painting of Jesus, depicted in a gold and light blue background.
To see the site of Jesus’ ascension, you need only exit and go around the corner of the church, and on the right side (if facing the church), you will see a little shrine.

Continuing on your exploration, on the opposite side, you will find the bell tower on the left side of the church. It is massive and powerful, particularly when the bells are going off. I’ve been told that climbing up the tower’s never-ending steps provides an amazing view all the way to Jordan and I don’t doubt it for a second (I only wish I could see it for myself!!! They don’t allow people up there these days).

As you wander through the gardens, you will soon find the chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist. In the chapel—smaller than the church—one can see ancient mosaic on the floor, including the very spot believed to be the location where St. John the Baptist’s head was found. I found it amusing how it seems as though an almost perfect hole was carved out of the ground to mark the spot; I would be content with just knowing the general area particularly with something of a gruesome nature… (I’ll be the first to admit that I am still learning a lot about Christian Orthodoxy and such ‘detailed shrines’ is part of the deal, lol). Since it’s ancient mosaic, there are carpets covering the floor to help preserve it, and the mention of it once being an Armenian Church brings questions to mind. What happened to the Armenian Church? At what point did it become Russian Orthodox property? What happened to the head? Ok, so maybe I don’t need to know all the gruesome details, but my curiosity on the subject is definitely sparked…

The rest of the promenade will reveal more greenery, the cottage that the church founder had built, the ‘food hall’ for the priests, nuns and other residents, a cemetery in the back, and many lovely panoramic views. And many, many cats (although I must say it’s likely a Jerusalem thing as opposed to an isolated event).

It’s interesting to note that there is another location also believed to be the site of the ascension. That site is called the Chapel of the Ascension and is located just a bit further down the street. There you will see a small, limestone-colored chapel with a domed roof and inside, a rectangle-shaped stone on the ground that marks the location of Jesus’ ascension.

As a reminder, since the Mount of Olives is the highest point in Jerusalem, it can get very windy fast and be cooler than other areas of Jerusalem. You would definitely want to layer if planning on being around in the evening. 

A few helpful links, and my slideshow: