One component of Palestinian culture that has fascinated me for quite some time is none other than tatreez, or Palestinian embroidery. As a lover of history, over the years I’ve gradually noticed my natural tendency to gravitate towards the traditional attires of any given culture I happen to be engulfed in at that moment. There may be various reasons as to why I was unaware of Palestinian embroidery for a long time, but its ‘discovery’ has enlightened me as well as allowed for comparisons with other traditional attires as well (ie: Incan, Mayan, African, and Russian traditional attires, to name a few). There is something about exploring the indigenous attire that really seems to transport you back in time by connecting you to the history and culture.

One of the popular designs of Palestinian dress is a long black thob (robe) with a mostly red flower pattern, along with a few other colors like blue, yellow, green, etc., which I saw worn quite often while in Jerusalem and the Occupied Territories. There are of course other dress colors and pattern designs which may be specific to different towns, such as Ramallah, Hebron, Bethlehem, etc. For instance, I have seen robes in white and blue originating from Ramallah (some pictures can be seen here) but black was the only color I saw worn during my stay.

Why the interest in traditional Palestinian embroidery, and other traditional embroideries for that matter?

For starters, the amount of time and work that it takes to make these dresses, decorations and accessories—handmade at that—definitely gets my utmost respect. In a world where almost everything is mass produced somewhere in a foreign factory, the thought that someone made your garment by hand can be very humbling. Also, depending on which garment you may be wearing, it could reveal a lot about you by appearance alone (ie: age, marital status, family/tribe/town origin, etc.). Thus in this sense, traditional attire can sometimes feel more personal than our modern-day attire, at least in the sense that we often choose not to reveal certain personal information through our clothing. Of course, I note that that is not to say that all thobs worn are this ‘revealing,’ especially nowadays. One can wear a black thob with flower pattern all over it, without it revealing said personal details. I suppose it all depends on how ‘authentic’ you want your dress to be, and what you want it to reveal about you.

Also, a detail I like to remember is the fact that there are no differences between Christian and Muslim dress patterns, as they have never been religious in nature. Given that Christian and Muslim Palestinians have lived side by side for centuries, the religious difference had never made itself apparent via clothing. Christian elements do appear in Palestinian embroidery made specifically for the home, and as such many—if not most—Christian Palestinian homes tend to have embroidered scenes from Jesus’s life hanging up on their walls.


*Edit to the above*: apparently that statement might not be completely accurate, at least in terms of the garments made in the past (think early 1900's and prior). I've talked with several people confirming that the garment patterns were specific to different towns, and seeing as religion was a defining factor, it was also incorporated into the clothing. It might be that these days, the dresses are less specific—or not as intent on specifying religion seeing as the majority of Palestinians still living there are now Muslim, and thus perhaps making the Christian population almost "too insignificant" to differentiate from—rendering that distant and perhaps almost forgotten information somewhat confused and/or mixed up.

It has been a dream of mine to have my very own custom-made Palestinian thob someday. Being vertically-challenged prevents me from going to fairs and simply snatching any of the dresses they have on display, as much as I’ve wanted to. Therefore, it has been and will remain a goal I will work towards, since I have heard they can cost anywhere from $400-$600+ depending on the specifics. Yes it may seem like a high price, but knowing what it entails, it’s one which I will gladly pay when the time is right. J

Here are two pictures displaying Palestinian embroidery taken on June 18, 2011 at the Bethlehem Fair Trade Market and a list of some books on Palestinian embroidery, as well as websites of interest:

Books:

Art of Palestinian Embroidery by Laila El-Khalidi

Embroidery from Palestine by Shelagh Weir

Palestinian Costume by Shelagh Weir

Palestinian Embroidery Motifs: A Treasury of Stitches 1850-1950 by Margarita Skinner, Widad Kawar

Threads of Identity: Preserving Palestinian Heritage by Widad Kawar

Traditional Palestinian Costume: Origins and Evolution by Hanan Munayyer

Traditional Palestinian Embroidery and Jewelry by Abed Al-Samih Abu Omar

Websites: 

http://palestinianembroider.tripod.com/

http://palestinecostumearchive.com/

http://www.palestineheritage.org/Costumes.htm

http://www.tatreez.net/

List of worldwide collections of Palestinian costumes: 

http://web.archive.org/web/20061114140432/www.palestinecostumearchive.org/collections.htm 

After spending 3 months in Jerusalem, it’s only natural that I’ve done and observed many things of both religious and secular natures. A byproduct of visiting for a substantial amount of time entailed observing the fashion trends of both Arabs and Israeli Jews, and reflecting on how, at least in some ways, they can be representative of culture and lifestyles.

One trend that sparked my attention involved make-up. A common trend I've seen during my stay—on both Arab and Israeli women-- is that of wearing one eyeshadow color on the eyelid and a different color eyeshadow/liner on the waterline/bottom lash. Clearly, it's one obvious way of wearing two different colors on your eyes at once. For some reason the bottom lash colors I've seen worn often happened to be bright blue. I’ve sometimes seen green, but very often bright blue or turquoise. Since I'm familiar with Arabic/Middle Eastern style make-up and have seen this trend in Arabic wedding and beauty magazines, it may be this influence at work on typical Jerusalemites. They might also be more up-to-date on the European trends than say, the US which—at least in my opinion—sometimes seems more resistant to and less adventurous with foreign fashion influences than other parts of the world.

Another make-up trend I've noticed is... 'straight' eyebrows. By that I mean eyebrows that are drawn/styled almost as a 'straight' line above your eye, instead of having an eyebrow that 'curves' above your eye. I'll admit I'm not a fan of this type of eyebrow, nor do I think it's very flattering, but I’ve definitely seen it a lot during my trip. I've seen it both on people and also in many popular Arab and Turkish-but-dubbed-in-Arabic TV shows. Why?! I have no clue... 

I was also surprised to see a lot of colored hair on Arab women because I assumed it would be deemed too provocative (given it is a more conservative society), especially when the most popular color at the moment happens to be… red. I knew blonde is (and always has been?!) also popular (gah!), but red is what I saw the most, worn by both stylish older women and younger ladies. They sure proved me wrong! I'll admit I often rejoiced when I saw just natural, super black long hair... but I’ll have to say that part of the fun of being a woman is the ability to play with your look if you so choose.

In terms of shoes, I've seen pretty much a lot of the same trends the US has like flats, platforms, heels, boots, etc. But what surprised me was still finding pointy-toed shoes... Wasn't this the trend a few years ago? Or is pointy-toe considered a classic that will never go away?

Now for the clothes. In terms of clothing, I found Arab women to be very feminine and colorful. And it makes sense when I recall the amount of times I've been teased for wearing even just a black t-shirt: "black?! why black?!,” I’d get asked. If only they knew back in the Bay I often wear entirely black outfits; makes sense to me! But mostly, I was reminded how much black is perceived as a mourning color and as such, it’s understandable that some cultures limit the use of that color in their everyday attire.

On the other hand, I saw the Western influence on typical secular Israeli women in that they also wear a lot of black. At Israeli malls and on a daily basis, I’d see working women wearing all-black outfits, just like any American or European would do.

Maybe it's my European upbringing, maybe it's American influence, maybe it's that black never goes out of style and is rather forgiving... but really for me black has always been a default, or most importantly, a color I enjoy. But I’ll admit that after being there for 3 months, I did ask myself a few times if I was indeed wearing ‘too much black.’ Ah, the power society has on you… I like to think my wardrobe is pretty balanced, and at the very least, being surrounded by people who favor colors over black provided me with a different perspective. One which I gladly admit did rub off on at me at least a little bit. J

One thing I found fascinating was the way I saw both religious Arab and Israeli Jewish women incorporate fashion and color in their religious attire. Almost always, I’d see some black combined with colors throughout the outfit: veiled, but colorful and stylish in heels, or Israeli Jewish woman in long skirt with colorful make-up. One of my favorite memories I have involves a woman I once saw who was religious, but who was dressed in such a way that by appearance alone I couldn’t tell if she was Muslim or Israeli Jewish. It was only the spoken Hebrew that I heard as I passed by that revealed her identity. This moment was memorable because, aside from the fact that she was both beautiful and religious, it reminded me of how sometimes similarities can overcome differences between different religious groups. Although it’s clear that religious Muslim and Israeli Jewish women don’t dress the same way, both groups emphasize the importance of covering their hair and wearing loose skirts/loose garments which can at times make the identities blur, as it did in the instance I mentioned. Obviously, this may be more likely to happen in an area where both Arabs and Jews interact, such as in an Israeli mall. It’s a given that in Arab areas you can assume the women are Arab because Israeli Jews do not go there, so there won’t be any ‘confusing the identities’ there. In any case, in both Muslim and Israeli Jewish groups of women, I saw traditional religious attire worn as well as incorporation of fashions into religious attire.

There are a few things I noticed that were particular to Eilat. I definitely saw the ‘beach babe/boy’ trend there, complete with super-brown tanned bodies (which I doubt were all natural tans) and gratuitous tattoo displaying. Women wearing Brazilian bikinis on the beach and at swimming pools were also a common sight. This may testify to the area’s extreme heat, but I think it also highlights the (some say ‘extreme’) laid-back attitude and Western flavor.

Needless to say, I saw a variety of things pertaining to fashion and appearance during my stay. Some attires were secular and fashionable, some more religiously traditional while others defied traditional definitions of religious garb.

Clearly, it can be hard, if not impossible, to identify the sole authority on religious attire and to determine how fashion may—or may not—affect it. Personally I believe that that is for each individual to determine and to apply to their life in the way they best see fit. In my experience, I saw the variety as source of inspiration, and I definitely enjoyed the visual elements that testified to the ‘desert life’ influence, such as harem pants, loose skirts/garments and magic carpet-like shawls and scarves (and yes I did bring a few back home with me; thank you Old City merchants!!).

As my experience reminds me, if one thing is sure, it’s that fashion can allow a person to explore different areas of their identity, or simply to reinforce the aspect(s) of their identity they deem most important in their life.

One of the popular tourist sites in Jerusalem is none other than the Mount of Olives. Indeed, this is the area where tourists—as well as locals—love to take that ‘signature photo’ of Jerusalem with the Old City and the Dome of the Rock Mosque in the background. Just below the balcony, you can also view the numerous Jewish graves and the golden domes of the Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene on the right side.

There is usually a camel that you can sit and ride on as well. Both in 2009 and this year, I saw the same man with crutches who brings his camel for people to ride on, reminding us that for some, these are their modest livelihoods and not just a source of entertainment.

And just in case this view makes you crave more (you are in the Holy Land, after all!), Augusta Victoria Hospital’s Mount Scopus is another great nearby area for such enterprises.

Be ready for pricey souvenir shops all over this area. Being a recent grad myself, I exercised my haggling abilities while in Jerusalem (and it’s nice to know that there are still some places in the world where you can do so!).

As a reminder, since the Mount of Olives is the highest point in Jerusalem, it can get very windy fast and be cooler than other areas of Jerusalem. You would definitely want to layer if planning on being around in the evening.

Also, the word on the street is that this area has recently been a hotbed of drug activity, so just as a precaution I would advise traveling in groups, especially at night. A mix of male-female is always better than an all female-group, again, especially at night. No, I’m not being paranoid nor am I naïve enough to assume/claim that those involved in drug activity are/are only Palestinian and/or that anything would happen during your visit. I’m just aware of cultural factors and believe in being better safe than sorry wherever one may be. J

That being said, yes the evening visit is highly recommended!! What’s better than daytime panoramic views of ancient cities? Well, night-time ones… sans crazy heat but with low glowing lights and crazy wind making you deeply regret leaving your hair tie behind on that particular night... But really how can anyone possibly complain, when upon viewing these pictures with flyaway hairs, all you can manage to do is laugh... And feel rather accomplished at the sight of the one that passed the test.

One of the important places for my family in Jerusalem—if not for other Russian Orthodox people as well—is the Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension (Russian Orthodox Church outside of Russia) on the Mount of Olives.

This is the place where I spent the night before Easter on my feet for about 4 hours (as highlighted here), praying and reflecting on the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus along with fellow Russian Orthodox folks.

The convent is located in the village of A-Tur on the Mount of Olives, and can be hard to find due to its ‘secluded’ and somewhat hidden location. What helps in finding it? The huge bell tower of course! While the tower serves as a guide to the general location, it’s clearly not the indicator of the entrance itself. The entrance is located between two buildings adorned with food shops, and you have to walk ‘in’ towards the back of a narrow pathway (kind of like a driveway) to get to its green gate. This green gate will have a golden plaque on the door indicating that it’s the Russian Orthodox Convent. You ring the bell and there should be someone who lets you in; sometimes it’s a Russian Orthodox nun, sometimes it’s a friendly Muslim gatekeeper/guard. I suppose the reason there is a gate is because, as is revealed when you step inside, you can drive and park inside the premises.

What do you see upon entering? Pretty much trees, gardens, a pathway leading to the church, and just a lot of space. You will definitely notice how quiet it is, which is in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the streets literally steps away.

You can take in the fresh air and quiet as you stroll through the garden and make your way to the church. When approaching the church, the gigantic bell tower will appear on its left side.

The church building is not so huge and is made of a bright cream colored stone, which I presume is limestone (a common stone used in the country). When stepping inside the compound, there is a kind of ‘patio’ built right in front of the church, so that when you enter the premises, you are not inside the church just yet. It is in this ‘patio’ that there are some benches and a wooden ‘chest’ where long aprons and skirts are stored in case women didn’t come wearing one (it’s tradition that women must enter wearing long skirts and their hair slightly covered). Blessing yourself as you then enter the church, you may notice it’s relatively small in size. I’ve made comments about this and was reminded that this wasn’t really meant to be a ‘church’ for huge masses, but rather the place for nuns and priests to worship and live modestly. You’ll notice the altar in the center, with the right side dedicated to Jesus and the left side to the Virgin Mary. Typical of Christian Orthodoxy, there are of course numerous icons throughout the church that are revered by the Russian Orthodox. I found the church peaceful and lovely, and also admired the ceiling painting of Jesus, depicted in a gold and light blue background.

To see the site of Jesus’ ascension, you need only exit and go around the corner of the church, and on the right side (if facing the church), you will see a little shrine.

Continuing on your exploration, on the opposite side, you will find the bell tower on the left side of the church. It is massive and powerful, particularly when the bells are going off. I’ve been told that climbing up the tower’s never-ending steps provides an amazing view all the way to Jordan and I don’t doubt it for a second (I only wish I could see it for myself!!! They don’t allow people up there these days).

As you wander through the gardens, you will soon find the chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist. In the chapel—smaller than the church—one can see ancient mosaic on the floor, including the very spot believed to be the location where St. John the Baptist’s head was found. I found it amusing how it seems as though an almost perfect hole was carved out of the ground to mark the spot; I would be content with just knowing the general area particularly with something of a gruesome nature… (I’ll be the first to admit that I am still learning a lot about Christian Orthodoxy and such ‘detailed shrines’ is part of the deal, lol). Since it’s ancient mosaic, there are carpets covering the floor to help preserve it, and the mention of it once being an Armenian Church brings questions to mind. What happened to the Armenian Church? At what point did it become Russian Orthodox property? What happened to the head? Ok, so maybe I don’t need to know all the gruesome details, but my curiosity on the subject is definitely sparked…

The rest of the promenade will reveal more greenery, the cottage that the church founder had built, the ‘food hall’ for the priests, nuns and other residents, a cemetery in the back, and many lovely panoramic views. And many, many cats (although I must say it’s likely a Jerusalem thing as opposed to an isolated event).

It’s interesting to note that there is another location also believed to be the site of the ascension. That site is called the Chapel of the Ascension and is located just a bit further down the street. There you will see a small, limestone-colored chapel with a domed roof and inside, a rectangle-shaped stone on the ground that marks the location of Jesus’ ascension.

As a reminder, since the Mount of Olives is the highest point in Jerusalem, it can get very windy fast and be cooler than other areas of Jerusalem. You would definitely want to layer if planning on being around in the evening. 

A few helpful links, and my slideshow:

Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension 

Chapel of the Ascension

The last trip I made during my stay in Jerusalem was to Imwas, Yalu and Beit Nuba in the West Bank. But these days it might be a bit difficult to find these locations under these specific names. These towns were captured, depopulated and destroyed during the 1967 Six-Day War. On top of where once rested the Palestinian villages of Amwas and Yalu, there is now Canada Park, funded by the Jewish National Fund of Canada. Beit Nuba is now Mar Haven settlement.

What did I see? Lots of greenery and open spaces, with the highway stretching nearby... Of course, trees everywhere, and quiet places to roam through… It seemed like a simple, peaceful place where visitors could enjoy themselves, but I’d have to say I didn’t really feel like I could do this there, or even if I should. Although concealed and unkempt, I saw remnants of Palestinian life there, as the remains of 2 wells and a cemetery showed…

And cactuses… Lots and lots of cactuses. I normally wouldn’t think twice about the abundance of these… Until I’m told that cactuses were used by Palestinians as a kind of ‘fence’ between other towns—in lieu of walls—as well as around towns; thus requiring everyone to enter through the city’s main entrance.

Imwas… or biblical Emmaus. Said to be the place where Jesus appeared to two of his disciples following his resurrection.
Was it the place I visited? Does it matter? And then again… how would we know ‘for sure’? Especially when I hear that there are 4 possible places which could have been ‘that’ Emmaus…

I came, I saw, I reflected… I did share time with caring people of various backgrounds while there, even had a hot dog and sat on a bench with the day’s last sunrays right in my face.

Was it a ‘picnic’? Perhaps, although it felt more like a little church service, what with the prayers said, and traditional Arabic songs sung to commemorate previous, unmentioned Palestinian life on that land…

Brief visit. Yet duration is not necessarily tantamount to impact and/or significance. +

My slideshow of a few photos taken there:



A short documentary in 2 parts, posted on YouTube:

Another memorable visit I’d like to share is the one we made to the town of Lifta, in West Jerusalem. It was a relatively short trip, taken in the late afternoon but which was just as enjoyable as any other longer excursions.

The bus dropped us off at the ‘top of the hill,’ and as we started walking, we were soon greeted with a steep, downhill path which was more challenging to partake in than one might expect. We took our time hiking down into the valley until we finally reached the bottom and could finally stop and observe the surroundings as we took in Lifta’s history.

Lifta is a town which was depopulated in 1948 by Jewish troops, and was home to both Christian and Muslim Palestinians as well as to some Jewish families. The town is now mostly deserted, but is surrounded by homes inhabited by Israelis. The Israeli presence became apparent as we hiked down into the valley and saw Israeli families passing through, jogging or just hanging out. It seemed obvious that our group was the only Arabic-English speaking group in these parts. As we observed the hills, what we saw were mostly ruins of homes, as well as the remains of a mosque. As our guides related some of the history, we found that on one side had been the home of a Christian family, while the house across from it on the other side had been home to a Jewish family. I could be wrong but I recall a detail about the house owned by the Jewish family, something about the house being built on uneven ground thus threatening the stability of the house…

We also saw a kind of ‘courtyard’ with a big water basin, in which I think Israelis bathe in these days. I believe that area used to be Lifta’s city center, with occasional markets and where inhabitants would join together and spend time socializing.

As we kept hiking further north, we saw more ruins and even saw some homeless and hippie Israelis staying in some of these buildings. I walked into a few of the empty homes and I must say I just felt the strangest feeling… like I was invading someone’s home. Clearly the place had been empty for years—even though there was endless graffiti and drawings adorning the walls—but I just felt like something was missing, like I was walking into someone’s home without them knowing about it… It was an awkward feeling I don't think I've ever experienced before...

We continued our hike, joking and chatting and singing until we eventually had reached the other side, where our bus awaited us to take us back into the center.

Maybe it was actually perfect that we went there in the late afternoon. There was something very lovely about seeing the late afternoon sun shining upon the remains of homes on the hills… I’m sure many people drive by them on the highway, indifferent to the ruins on the hills, unaware of Lifta’s location and history. And who knows how much longer Lifta will be there for people to visit, as I heard plans of building luxury homes there may soon come to fruition?

I know little of what will happen to Lifta in the near future, but I do know I am glad to have seen its remains—as much as I could of them—while they were still there. If I could have found the place very breathtaking despite the obvious destruction that has taken place there in recent history, I can only imagine how gorgeous it must have been when Lifta was a thriving and fully populated town in Jerusalem. +

One of the amazing trips I was able to make as a Sabeel volunteer was a week-end-long visit to the Galilee, in the northern part of the country (taken late May 2011). The drive through the country alone involved some amazing sceneries, arguably some of the most beautiful in the world.

Our main destinations were Al Bassa, Kufr Yassif, I’billin and Ras al Naqoura. In Al Bassa-- a town which was depopulated in 1948-- we visited the ruins of 2 churches, one of which has recently been used as a stable by Israeli settlers. We also saw the ruins of a Christian cemetery. I am always baffled as to how anyone could disrespect the resting place of those who have passed on, regardless of the cemetery or deceased people’s religious affiliation…

I found this deeply disturbing and painful to see, so much so that I couldn’t bear to take many pictures of the area...

In Kufr Yassif, we visited some beautiful campgrounds and climbed atop a huge wooden structure (tree-house like; I don’t know what else to call it) that showed some amazing Mediterranean ocean views. Kufr Yassif is also the town in which we all attended mass on Sunday morning, with about half of the group attending a Melkite/Catholic mass and the rest attending a Greek Orthodox mass.

I’billin was the lovely, very Christian Palestinian town with endless hills and narrow, winding streets through which we had to maneuver a huge bus to reach the ‘dorms’ where we spent Saturday night. I immediately noticed how Christian Palestinian that town was due to the fact that almost every other building had a big cross crowning it. We briefly visited a nearby town called Shefa-Amr, where we got to taste some local, delicious Palestinian ice cream, serving the equivalent of 3 huge scoops for a mere 10 shekels (less than $3!!).

Although we only stayed one night at the ‘dorms,’ I will always remember fondly the time spent there and particularly the man who was ‘overseeing’ us during our stay. He was a very warm person with a great sense of humor, and as he wished us well saying “God bless you,” I couldn’t help but to feel a bit sad to leave.

The last place we saw was Ras al Naqoura, which is right at the border with Lebanon. The sceneries there overlooking the Mediterranean were absolutely stunning, as were the grottos we wandered through. If standing in a certain area, you could actually see the rope-like ‘string’ used to indicate the border between Israel and Lebanon…

Always a bit funny/confusing to see these things; how does one determine a border? And who decides on the specifics? Mmmmm...

On the way home, we stopped in Nazareth to have some delicious knafeh dessert, which I am shocked to say I was unable to finish because it was so sweet and filled me up fast (which is rare for someone who is as sweet-toothed as myself!). ABSOLUTE DELIGHT and a must-try if visiting the country!

I am thankful to have had the opportunity to visit these places. Besides being visually stunning, I must say there is a different ‘feel’ to the north, and apparently I’ve heard quite a few other people say the same as well… I believe the total drive time from Jerusalem to the north is about 4 hours long, and given that the drive from Jerusalem to Eilat (at the southernmost tip) was also about 4 hours, it seems you may be able drive through the country from north to south in around 8-9 hours? This seems minimal to me, who lives in California and which I believe would require more time than that to drive through…

Sadly, this time around I did not go to Tiberias (where Jesus walked on water), but that location is also in the area (more to the East), making the Galilee an absolute must-see. Until the occasion presents itself again, I’ll contend myself by combining memories from Tiberias in 2009 along with my 2011 Galilee experience, and rejoice at the memories. +

It has been a little over a week since I’ve been back to the Bay Area, and I must say I am still taking some time adjusting to being home again. It has been my experience that upon returning home from being abroad for a while, some transitioning is always necessary. Sometimes it really isn’t until you have come back home that you really get to reflect upon how much being in a certain place has affected you... The 10-hour difference alone is enough to throw you off balance for at least about a week; that was the case for me both going there and coming back. On another note, I have had quite a laugh at the amount of times I’ve been tempted to greet and answer people in Arabic (even though that Arabic is still quite limited; it’s no easy language!) and in some ways, the extreme summer heat we are now having is somewhat making me feel as though I never left the desert at all…

Perhaps in order to readjust being home, we tend to look for similarities in our surroundings that will remind us of our recent experience(s)? How do I answer the question of ‘if I’m glad to be home’? Of course I am glad; there is no place like home… but perhaps after being somewhere for an extended amount of time, that ‘new’ place also becomes our home, albeit in a different way.

Maybe that is the aspect I love the most about traveling: when you come back, you are never really the same exact person you were when you’d left.

Even though I am home now, I still have much to share, and I look forward to doing so promptly! It seems that sometimes when you are caught in the midst of so much activity, it leaves little time for writing about it--perhaps because you are too busy experiencing it. Even if you do have some time, you may not be in the mood at that particular moment to write about it... You can't predict how some things will affect you or your goals, so I suppose when the time is right, that is when you get down to it. +

So here I am, with 2 weeks left on my trip to Jerusalem. I have been busy and many things have happened since the last time I've written, giving me little time to keep up with blog posting...

The main reason I've been busy is that since late last month, I've been volunteering at a Christian Palestinian organization called Sabeel. As per Sabeel website:

Sabeel is an ecumenical grassroots liberation theology movement among Palestinian Christians. Inspired by the life and teaching of Jesus Christ, this liberation theology seeks to deepen the faith of Palestinian Christians, to promote unity among them toward social action. Sabeel strives to develop a spirituality based on love, justice, peace, nonviolence, liberation and reconciliation for the different national and faith communities. The word "Sabeel" is Arabic for 'the way' and also a 'channel' or 'spring' of life-giving water.

Sabeel also works to promote a more accurate international awareness regarding the identity, presence and witness of Palestinian Christians as well as their contemporary concerns. It encourages individuals and groups from around the world to work for a just, comprehensive and enduring peace informed by truth and empowered by prayer and action.

I have also been able to see other parts of the country, due in part to family outings as well as Sabeel excursions, and I am very thankful for having had these opportunities.

Sabeel also has a young adult conference every year, which lasts 10 days and has both local Palestinian and international participants. It is a great way to learn about Palestinian Christian life here, a unique opportunity to see the country and make lifelong friends as well. Sadly I won't be here for the conference this year, but it gives me the idea of coming back at some point in the future to participate in it. 

As my experience comes to a conclusion, I am starting to make lists of 'last minute things to do,' like buying souvenirs and foods, hanging out as much as you can with people you see everyday, and remembering to go back to some places to take wayyy too many pictures (because of course, everything feels so important when it's last minute, and you never know when you'll get to see these places again... LOL).

Some of the things I look forward to sharing shortly:

* trip to the Galilee

* visiting Lifta

* common trends (fashion)

* lifestyle

Of course there will be others... these are just the ones that pop into my head at the moment.

2 weeks to conclude it all... I look forward to adding a few more memories to that already-long list. +

I returned yesterday to Jerusalem after spending 4 days in Eilat, Israel. Eilat is Israel's southernmost city with gorgeous beaches and triple-digit weather. Basically it seems to be the place where everyone goes to to escape from work and responsibilities for a few days.

After about 4 hours cramped in a car, we arrived in Eilat in the evening and were greeted with pool-friendly weather. Since I went with 3 family members and a friend of the family who go every year, they had already decided to rent an apartment for our stay. This made it more economical when we split the cost by 5 people instead of staying at a hotel. We stayed at the Royal Park apartments, which were nice and had a big swimming pool. The apartment itself had 2 rooms: a living room connected to a kitchen and a bedroom. Two people stayed in the living room and three in the bedroom (each had their own bed). And of course there was a bathroom. The place wasn't big at all (going by "California/US standards") but it definitely fit the bill for the few days we were staying, and also for the fact that we spent most of our time outside the apartment. 

Of course, for additional savings, we came prepared: enough food was brought to last 4 days, as well as cups and plates much like when you go camping. Thankfully, we also found a local place to buy very well-priced foods. It is really ridiculous how high the prices were in Eilat, but also how much they differed depending on location!! (which seems to be the case all over this country...!?). Most of the food we ate that week-end consisted of hummus, 2 different kinds of salads, eggs, sausage, bread and soda for breakfast, and barbecued chicken, kebab meat, onions, hot peppers and again that salty "100% fat" that everyone seems to love, for dinner. Cocktails were consumed all throughout the day as well. Again, eating that way for a few days felt great, but it's definitely not a diet you'd want to keep going much longer than that!!!

Eilat is pretty small, so I'd say the things you can do can be limited and you only need a few days to really see and know what Eilat is about. There is one mall with 3 floors, and right outside there is a boardwalk filled with shops. I'd say the shops are definitely catered to tourists, but you can also find cute beach-friendly clothes at bargain prices. I found a pair of very cute (even if 'exaggerated') harem pants for only 50 shekels (about $13). Bonus that the material is cotton, which is always what I look for when purchasing clothing. If you go to the regular or more high-end shops, the prices are "Eilat prices" AKA, very high. IE: someone bought ONE bar of soap for 6 shekels (about $2) when in Jerusalem I bought 6 soaps for 15 shekels (around $4). 

In the evening, you can enjoy one of the many 'cafes' that line the beach, many with low seats that you can sit/lie down on while you have a drink just literally a few steps away from the water. I had never seen bars/cafes with this kind of outdoor seating and I must say it was so lovely and relaxing!! All throughout the city, music was blasting from one corner to another, well into the night (I could still hear it blasting around 3am when I once fell asleep at the apartment LOL). There is definitely a 'party vibe' to the city and I think most people come to Eilat for that. I heard that there are dance clubs but sadly I did not see or visit any of them. Bars and shops stay open until pretty late so that you can enjoy drinks and being out in the hot weather well into the night.

Aside from 'doing the drinking thing,' Eilat also has water activities, amusement parks and aquariums that you can enjoy. When at the beach, we decided one day to pay a fee and do 3 water activities, which included lying down on an inflatable 'bed' which, attached to a boat, basically pulled us through the water and tried to make us fall off. I don't know the name of this activity but it was my favorite, and so much fun!!!! The second activity was similar, except you'd sit on an inflated banana and get dragged through the water. I learned that keeping your balance in the water while sitting is very difficult indeed! LOL Finally, we kayaked for some time as well. We got a good arm work-out, and came out of the water red from the sun and covered in a 'white film,' thanks to the Red Sea's saltiness. On another day, we visited Coral World, which had different exhibits such as sharks, turtles and stingrays, rare fish and red sea reef. It was entertaining, but small in my opinion. We had planned on visiting King City (which was close to where we stayed), but when we got there we were told we only had one hour until they closed, so we skipped it. The sight of that massive orange structure standing in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere was unlike anything I had ever seen. Something about that orange color... or was it the architecture?! Not sure...

One thing I sensed about Eilat is that it seemed to have a bit of a "hippie" vibe. I saw many shops with rasta-like themes, and a few times when we hung out at the beach I heard songs that basically sounded like Jewish/Israeli reggae. I saw tons of people with tattoos-- and of course that's not to say that they were all from Eilat-- but judging from some of the tans, they definitely could have been. Seeing tattoos definitely stood out to me since 1. you rarely see them in Jerusalem and 2. I hear it's looked down upon by religious Jews, and that there is a tradition that says that a tattooed Jewish person can't be buried in a Jewish cemetery. Maybe tattoos are becoming part of the mainstream in Israel as well? In any case, Eilat's hot weather allows everyone to show off their body art (and hot bodies!!) if they are so inclined. 

Another thing I definitely noticed was the city's prominent Russian Jewish presence. Most places had Hebrew and Russian signs, which testify to that. The apartment we stayed at also had a lot of French Jews. I would say Eilat did not look particularly 'diverse' as most people there were Jewish. Jews from different parts of the world indeed, but mostly Jews nonetheless. Saw maybe 5 Arabs and a few Africans (who themselves also could have been Jewish...). And this detail only underlines part of the political situation in Israel. Seeing so few Arabs only reminded me that many Arabs--with the difficult issue of identity being what it is--are not allowed in Eilat due to its proximity to Egypt and Jordan. For many Arabs, permits are issued for other parts of Israel but Eilat is the one forbidden location. 

What did I enjoy? It was definitely nice to get away from the city (Jerusalem) for a while, and see something new. Of course it was more laid back in Eilat... the things you do are limited and very relaxed! Spending your day mostly drinking and swimming is not going to be a source of frustration, so what is there to complain about? LOL The scenery... definitely gorgeous. Eilat is bordered by Egypt in the south and Jordan to the east. I definitely loved swimming at the Red Sea beach (even if the water was cold and salty!) and contemplating swimming straight across to Aqaba's shore, staring right at me... Yes, I was googley-eyed, remembering that scene from "Lawrence of Arabia" with T.E. Lawrence and his Arab troops capturing that port city... How could I not be?! *sigh* 

Driving back through the scorching desert, my imagination roamed, filled with images of camel-riding people trekking through the never-ending vastness...
And I was reminded that I love me an air-conditioned car indeed!!!!

Eilat: simple, layed back, hot, somewhat cliche in some ways... but definitely to be experienced. 

SPF 45+ sunscreen mandatory. +

Since I came to Jerusalem last month to witness all the Palestinian Christian Easter traditions, I had my share of church/mass experiences. By blood, my family is Russian Orthodox, but being that they live in an Arabic-speaking country, it makes sense that they might like to go to the Arab Orthodox mass, which is in Arabic. Linguistically it makes little difference for me as I speak neither Arabic nor Russian (sadly!). Although they are both Orthodox churches, albeit of different ethnic groups, some aspects stood out to me during these frequent April church visits.

The first thing that comes to mind when I compare both churches is the way people dress when attending mass. Going to Arab Orthodox mass puts little limitation on what you can wear. Of course, you'd figure not to wear things that are too revealing, but in terms of pants or skirts and which colors, pretty much anything goes. Some like to dress up, wear a variety of colors (brights and patterns too) while some are more casual in jeans and flats. 

In Orthodox churches women are supposed to cover their hair slightly, as a sign of modesty, but it was not made a requirement when attending Arab Orthodox mass. I saw some wearing it (usually older women), but I'd say most didn't. 

For Russian Orthodox church, ladies have to wear a long skirt and cover their hair. There is no exception to this rule. I had gone to Russian Orthodox mass at the Mount of Olives on the Eve of Easter, so I chose to wear black. However, I saw most women wearing pretty much neutral colors, and a lot of flower-patterned scarves on their head. I had visited the church before Easter, and I was surprised to find that at the entrance of the church was a wooden 'box' that had tons of apron-like long skirts ready for you to wear in case you didn't come wearing one. As I wasn't wearing a skirt on that day, to enter the church I wore one of these briefly while inside, and I wore my sweater's hood too (since I didn't have a scarf then).

Another detail that stands out is the way the mass is carried out. In Arab Orthodox church, depending on the day, the masses are usually rather brief (1.5 to 2 hours). There is seating throughout the church and most people sit until a particular passage referring to God or Jesus comes, at which point people will stand for the passage. On the other hand, Russian Orthodox masses seem to be longer (the one I attended was 4 hours! But it was Easter Eve at the Russian Orthodox Convent of the Ascension after all...), and sitting is usually a privilege left for older people. Basically, you stand for the duration of the mass. The seating I saw on Easter Eve was very limited, and the concept was the same in that when certain passages come, people stand. 

A third detail I noticed involves socializing/behavioral aspects. I got the impression that going to church for Arabs is a very social event, with people greeting each other, kids everywhere (loud and quiet ones), and sometimes even some minor chatting on the sides. When mass was over, people would linger around and say hello to one another. Basically, it was rarely 'silent as the grave' when attending a mass.

I definitely noticed a difference when I entered the Russian Orthodox church. As I entered and heard a priest singing in a low and consistent voice, I immediately remembered how beautiful that traditional singing can be in those churches. It was for the most part very quiet, dark (the only lighting was from candles) and whispering seemed to be at a minimum. Aside from nuns in black attire moving about at times, and of course people blessing themselves, there was limited movement. I remember one brief moment, when the choir of nuns were singing. It sounded so angelic and I felt so still that for a few seconds, as I closed my eyes and said a prayer, I actually felt like I was the only person there... Then someone passed by me and I was back in 'the real world.' (*Sigh* It's fine... that moment was enough to have made this long night worth it.)

Of course I could be wrong, but I didn't sense that there was as much interaction between people here as in the Arab Orthodox church. There could be different reasons for that. Could be some people were Russian tourists visiting for Easter, maybe some are more reserved or simply don't know anyone else who is attending. At Arab Orthodox church it seemed everyone knew each other, which would obviously explain increased interaction. 

Basically, in terms of 'rules,' I'd have to say that the Russian Orthodox church is stricter than the Arab Orthodox church. It's not a question of right or wrong; they're just different. The point is not to portray one as 'better' than the other; I was just reflecting on how they may or may not be alike. I'm glad to have experienced each so that I increase my knowledge and experience of each side and in some ways, of the cultures as well.

+

A week ago, on Thursday April 21st, my cousin and I ventured to Ramallah... on our own. The experience was a mix of exploring, shopping, cousin seeing her old friend, but eventually, frustration.

As expected, getting there was no problem. We found parking and then started on our walk to check out the shop-filled streets. I bought a dress at a Mango store within 5 minutes of being there... What can I say? I know what I like and I'm a quick shopper LOL =) It wasn't noon yet and the streets were filled with shoppers. It seems people in this country are early-risers, but I've also noticed that when it comes to some foods, some prefer to buy what they need on the day it will be cooked rather than to stock up ahead of time. Guaranteed freshness, right? While I might be used to "getting moving" later on in the day, here the hustle and bustle of life starts quite early.

As we ventured on, all we saw were shops, shops and more shops, many of which have what I consider to be funny English names. It was also interesting to be roaming the rugged, narrow streets only to hear a radio blasting Rihanna and other typical American songs... right. My wandering eyes eventually caught a big green and white label, and I soon realized I was greeted with Ramallah's very own version of Starbucks, renamed... "Stars and Bucks." Yes I did have to laugh at that one, and just had to snap a picture. As anywhere else, you see some dressed in more religious attire and others mixing it up to make it fashionable, with matching colors/purses/shoes, etc. Speaking of shoes. I think out of all the stores we saw, we mostly saw shoe stores... my goodness. No shortage of that here, and of color variety either!!

All went fine, until we decided to head home. The main checkpoint in Ramallah is the Qalandiya checkpoint which is the one that gets the worse traffic and is notorious for ridiculously long waits. It happens to be located off the main street, which we figured wouldn't be so hard to find. Big mistake. We soon realized how much Ramallah is lacking in adequate, if any, road signs, so that we drove around for at least a good 30 minutes, looking for signs leading back to Jerusalem, before realizing that we were heading towards other unknown towns. We asked for directions at least 4-5 different times from people, police and Palestinian soldiers until we finally found the road to Qalandiya. But that in itself was only part of the solution, as there was terrible traffic ahead of us. We knew another, easier checkpoint to go through to get home besides Qalandiya, but required a longer drive, so we realized we'd be sitting in that traffic for some time. The worst part? We needed a bathroom. Sure it sounds silly in retrospect, but things like this just serves to remind you that 1. always look for/use a bathroom when you can because you never know when you'd be able to find one next and 2. in some parts of the world, you can't just 'park your car on the side' and go look for accomodations, etc. The traffic is such that your car is just stuck there and there is absolutely nowhere to go but straight ahead, period. 

So, sitting in bumper to bumper traffic, cringing all the while... We took the longer route and it seemed like we'd finally be reaching home in a few short minutes until the car died... just steps away from the other checkpoint we'd driven all this way to reach. My goodness. It was like the ride home was destined to last forever... We tried to re-start the car several times, without luck. My cousin's husband quickly came to the scene to try to figure out the situation. He stayed on with the car while we drove home fast because yes, we still needed that bathroom and had been waiting an hour by now to use it (really not good for the bladder, in case that's a surprise to anyone). I will say I have never before felt such relief to reach home...

In terms of the car, it seemed it had over-heated and it went unnoticed, so that by the time we had reached the checkpoint, it had reached its limit...?? I'm not sure and this still puzzles me, when we are told this never happened to the car before. Go figure. A nice thing amidst the craziness: while we waited for my cousin's husband to arrive, a car pulled up and a Jewish man came over to try to help us out with the car situation. I already would have been surprised for that gesture back in CA, but here in Israel/Occupied Territories where tensions abound, this stood out even more in a lovely way.

Lessons of the day? Even for my cousin who has lived here her whole life, it may be wise to consider how 'adventurous' one is willing to be. Honestly, I wasn't really frustrated by the whole thing as much because I saw it as part of the experience... Part of me had indeed thought, "hey we might get lost, but we'll just figure our way out..." which we eventually did do. But the bathroom and car dying thing? Would have never seen that one coming in a million years. Next time we go it will surely be with people who know the area... and with our own cars (we had taken someone else's car). The bathroom thing has also been rather painfully noted. Perhaps these issues wouldn't have been a big deal in the States, but here? Where many streets lack names, probably don't appear on a map, with construction being done all over the place, and one hill looking exactly like the next?

Hey, you live and you learn. =)

On Monday, April 25th 2011, a group of 12 of us went to Yafo to watch a rather brief Arab Christian celebration. It was basically all the Christians from the area gathering to go to church, and then watch their scouts parading the streets. It's an occasion for people to dress up and socialize but since my cousins don't know anyone in Yafo, we just watched and didn't stick around. 

After, we headed to one of the many parks of the area to barbecue, and man was the park packed!!!!! As always it was a mix of people, but I suppose the people there were mostly Jews celebrating Passover and Christians celebrating Easter. The weather was really nice and 3 of the guys barbecued some amazing food: chicken, kebabs, onions, tomatoes, hot peppers (which burnt my tongue with how spicy they were!!!) and also this food that looked a lot like pieces of chicken but were actually pieces of 100% fat. When cooked it was very tasty and salty but again, you'd have to remember you are eating pure fat LOL

The park was huge, and there were some attractions for kids, such as a little 'zoo' with deers and peacocks, and playgrounds. There were also some big 'lakes' so you could water-ski and do a few other water-related activities. It was interesting to see this huge park that had what I consider to be better-than-average entertainment. We'd be eating our barbecue and then see someone randomly passing by on their water-ski, flying through the air if they happened to be doing some tricks. Some were dressed in casual clothes, others in religious clothing. Regardless all seemed to be there to enjoy a day off in the sun. We stayed there quite a while, eating and relaxing at the park. In the evening we headed to a place on the other side of Yafo called "Victory" for ice cream and waffles... Good grief, their portions were huge and tasted delicious!! I hadn't had sweets and chocolates in well over 40 days, so this was another welcomed post-Easter treat. 

This marked the end of the Easter week-end and back to work the next day for most people. Little road trips are always enjoyable and have a way of making you feel alive. Maybe some moments feel extra special because you know you only have that one day, one hour, or whatever specific time limit. Easter may be over, but we'll just have to see which other trips we'll make during my stay. +

After 3 weeks worth of Easter-related events, it all came down to Easter week-end. A lot happened in just these 3 days, and the following is a long entry concerning my experience.

On Good Friday, April 22nd 2011, we went to St. Jacob's in the late afternoon for mass. After that, we watched the 'burial of Jesus' in the courtyard of the Holy Sepulchre (which is right outside). The procession came out of St.

Jacob's church and the body of Jesus, in a coffin, was paraded around the courtyard 3 times.It was EXTREMELY packed. People were getting pushed and voices were raised, but I guess in the end it all worked out (LOL?!). It started to drizzle slightly and after the procession, the crowd slowly dispersed. I did not know it yet, but this crowd I had witnessed tonight was nothing compared to what would occur on the next day, Holy Saturday...

On Holy Saturday, April 23rd 2011, I practically spent the entire day in the Old City, watching Arab Christian scouts and traditions displayed at every corner of the city... It made me realize how easy it can be to lose all notion of time and place, to be lost in yourself, your family, customs, and basically enter a whole other world. At least it felt that way for me, who was seeing all this for the first time. This may have become 'routine' for other people who see it every year, but this was all new to me.

We left the house in the morning around 11am and headed to the Old City with 4 other people to watch the lighting of the Holy Fire. But what ensued was a series of things I will surely never forget. Partly due to the spiritual aspect of the experience, of course, but also partly because a lot of it was pretty insane and also downright scary, at least for me. My cousin had warned me on the way there: "get ready for more pushing and craziness today." Some things you really can't imagine until you experience them for yourself... As we walked in the Old City, it did not take long for us to see how packed the streets already were, and the lighting of the fire wasn't going to happen until 2pm... 

As we neared the church, and got more engulfed in the crowds, I eventually got separated from my girl cousin and her crew, and instead drifted off with my cousin's friend/coworker. We were literally stuck against walls, barely able to walk, literally having to push your way through (and I hate doing that because of course I consider that rude, but we really had NO choice!! Assertiveness is key here!!). Granted, although every second wasn't excruciating per se, the few times that there were 'panics' and such, they were bad enough to make us worry and feel as though this could end up badly. A few times we felt like we couldn't get enough air, so intensely packed it was.

At some point, there was such bad pushing and 'stampeding'-like behavior that a man had opened the doors to his shop to let people in while the crowd kept moving, hopefully making it easier for people to walk. He had grabbed my arm and my partner-in-crime and I had gone in very briefly... Sheesh. I am all for being devoted and strong in your faith but this?! Fighting for my life indeed!!!!!!!!! I'm sure some found this an 'opportunity' to get close to cute girls and help them out in this crazy situation... Of course I found it very sweet when some guys were being extra helpful, getting a protective-like stance as they tried their best to help girls move along, even when all were packed like sardines LOL. I'll say helpful, protective gents are welcomed in any situation =)

Thankfully my cousin's friend had experienced this before--even though she did say it had never been that bad before-- so she knew what she was doing and was determined to get as close to the Holy Sepulchre as possible. She wanted to at least be able to hear the bells, which would signify the Holy Fire had been lit. Well we didn't get far, but eventually we found a spot right at the corner of Greek Patriarchate St. of the Christian Quarter. We waited here about 1.5 hours until the lighting of the Holy Fire. There was nowhere to go, barriers/'checkpoints' were being set up all over the place by Israeli soldiers, so we knew movement would be limited. Where we stood and waited, right across from us a barrier had been set up, so that here we were, 2 groups of people waiting, separated by a 'gap' in which stood the Israeli soldiers. I suppose this 'gap' came in handy for making room when the 'fences' came down, to let the scouts pass through what was a narrow street (as pretty much all streets are in the Old City).

Someone eventually appeared with a bundle of candles that were ablaze (this bundle consists of 33 thin candles; to signify the number of years Jesus lived), and everyone just went crazy trying to reach that candle so they could light their own... I was really concerned. So much fire and constricted space and movement, I was just trying to make sure no one would set themselves, or someone else, on fire!!!! I didn't know anything then about 'supposedly the fire not burning you the first 33 minutes it's lit' but what I do know is that I felt the heat radiating from the flames all around me, and that was enough to make me extremely cautious. Maybe it was the intensity in the air, the short but awkward event between a Palestinian and a soldier, and the crazy crowd, but I just wanted 'safety first' at this point. 

After fighting for our lives (LOL), we were hungry and went and got pizza from Yerevan, the Armenian restaurant right at the corner by the New Gate. We took it home and it felt amazing to 1. have gotten home alive in one piece!! and 2. that fasting was over and we could finally eat cheese and meat again!!! Simply amazing =)

That had been in the late morning/early afternoon. It had already been an event-filled day, but I was nowhere near being done. It was 4:30pm, and I knew that I would still be going back to the Old City to watch the Ethiopian celebration of the Holy Fire and the Catholic scouts later in the evening. THEN, at midnight I would be heading with my uncle and aunt to the Russian convent for mass, until 5am... I had tried to rest for 2 hours since I knew I had all this ahead of me, but I guess the excitement got the best of me and I just stayed up the whole time.

Around 7:30pm, we were back in the Old City to watch the Ethiopian celebration. We went in through a narrow passage on the right side, outside the Holy Sepulchre. We went up narrow steps and hallways, all the while seeing crowds of typically white-clad Ethiopians praying everywhere. The air was thick and humid inside, with so much body heat and candles all over the place. We eventually reached the roof and we were outside, where more Ethiopians were sitting and praying against the walls. Others, younger crowds and tourists were standing and waiting for the lighting to begin. We had thought that it wouldn't be as crazy packed as it had been during the morning's events, and at first, it truly seemed that way. We breathed a sigh of relief... but not for long. We were given candles by the gentle and sweet crowd and chatted as we waited. It was almost pitch-black on the roof, and you could actually see the stars. Eventually the lighting of the candles happened, and everyone started singing and it really felt rather fun and exciting... but it was too packed, again!!!!! My short arm was trying so hard to reach as high as it could to catch as much footage on my camera as I could, and the result was 30 seconds at best (LOL). Hey, I tried... Sadly, we didn't stay long at all, but I am glad to have seen at least some of it. 

We then headed to watch the Arab Catholic scouts play, which of course they had done in the morning, but this was night-time. I really enjoyed the tune they play, which apparently is a rendition of the song "Sidi Mansour." Makes sense now; I was wondering why the tune sounded vaguely familiar!!!!! All in good fun... =)

I headed home and I had about an hour to get ready for the Russian Orthodox mass... I wore my outfit, which was basically all black: long skirt, black jacket and black scarf on my head. Maybe it's my European upbringing that makes me default on black when I'm not sure what to wear, or when it comes to religious events, but it turns out apparently I didn't need to wear all black. Women were indeed wearing long skirts and covering their heads, but if anything they seemed to be wearing lighter colors and flower-patterned scarves. I guess black was just my preference (and usually is in general, LOL). I hadn't been in a Russian church in a long time, and I had forgotten that Russian Orthodox churches usually seem to have consistent singing, even if really low and 'in the background.' The female choir was really nice and relaxing to hear. The church is small and the people seemed exclusively Russian, who may have only spoken Russian too. It lasted about 4.5 hours, during which I stood pretty much

the whole time (and yes my legs did hurt!). After the mass, we had breakfast which consisted of sesame bread (ka'ak), an egg, chocolate, a sweet piece of bread, some kind of sweet salad, and tea. I'll admit this early in the morning (around 5am), I didn't really have much of an appetite and was really dreaming of a nice cozy bed to sleep in. I had been up and about for almost 24 hours by now, so yes the fatigue was really kicking in. I know I had wanted to see the mass and mostly do it for my great-grandmother who is buried there. It was required by no one; it's just something I wanted to do and I'm glad to have had the opportunity. +

I slept from about 5:30am until 11:30am. The rice with meat and chicken I had for lunch tasted amazing, given I hadn't had any meat in about a month. The day was relaxing, and in the evening the cousins (meaning us adults) went to Beit Sahour to eat and have a drink, just to go for a drive and be out on Easter. 

On top of the 3 weeks leading up to Easter, this week-end alone felt extremely busy and intense. It has been a bit of everything for sure: relaxing, rejoicing, worrying, stressing... longing. I am very thankful to have had the opportunity to do so, and even to have seen the crowds, as frightening as it may have been at times. That was indeed what I had hoped for; to see multiple people coming together to witness what is considered to be the most important Christian celebration. Due to the small Christian Palestinian population here, I really wanted to witness their traditions and perhaps even retain some of them myself. Only time will tell...

Al Massih Kam, Hakan Kam!!! +

Yesterday, Sunday April 17th 2011 was Palm Sunday, which commemorates Jesus' entry into Jerusalem. We started off the day with an early mass and then watched some of the scouts march through the streets of the Old City. On top of the weather being so hot, it was absolutely packed... like there-is-no-room-to-walk kind of packed!!! It was quite a sight to see and I've got much of it recorded and in snapshots. The streets were a mix of well-dressed Arab Christians, tourists and cart-pushing young kids trying to deliver their goods through the narrow and packed Christian quarter. My uncle said that this is the last week that Jerusalem will be seeing so many people; after Easter it will go back to being quiet... 

After, we drove to a Jaffa restaurant near Tel Aviv, where we absolutely stuffed ourselves with fish yet again (since Palm Sunday allows for fish consumption). It was also quite refreshing since the restaurant had a view to the sea, which was my first time ever seeing the ocean here!!! After, we went for a short walk down to the boardwalk and to the water. Walking under the scorching sun, I must say dipping my feet in the ocean water had never felt so good... if not slightly cruel for tempting me to throw myself in the ocean entirely (LOL!!). 

After a long, warm sleepy ride back to Jerusalem, we went once again to the New Gate/Old City to watch the scouts yet again. The streets were closed off to let the scouts pass through and I was able to get pretty much the whole thing recorded (at the cost of my arm feeling sore today, LOL). It was really quite a sight to see the whole area so packed. Of course the majority of the people were Arab Christians, but there were some tourists and I think even Israeli reporters fully equipped for taking pictures of the parade (for newspaper articles perhaps?). Seeing that many people, I was reminded why I had wanted to come this year; because this year all Christian denominations celebrate Easter on the same day. Apparently it will be another 11 years until this happens again. As a reminder, Catholics usually celebrate Easter 2 weeks before the Orthodox do. It was definitely memorable and I'm glad to have witnessed it. My cousin did make me laugh by asking me "if I was enjoying the fashion show," which was entertaining to see. I must say I'm always surprised to see women able to walk in stilettos on uneven, ancient, cobblestoned streets!!! I was never a fan of flats until seeing the streets of Paris and Rome, and they are definitely my go-to shoes here as well. Perhaps less religious areas like Tel-Aviv have flatter concrete pavement to walk on, but in these here parts, I have no choice but to go the safe route...=) All around a unique and enjoyable experience. +

What is planned for the days leading up to Easter:

Friday 22nd: to the Holy Sepulchre 

Saturday 23rd/Sun 24 in the AM: to Mt. of Olives' Russian Orthodox Easter mass

Monday 25th: to Yafo for Christian festival

Apparently I won't be getting much sleep that week-end since some of these will entail spending the night in places consecutively, but I'm not one to complain. I'm actually very excited to see it all... When is the next time I'll get to do this?! Off to the religious sites I go!!! +

The following are a few pictures I took. I mostly got all of it recorded but due to the large file size, I'm having a few issues uploading it right now... but soon, soon!!